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Running a lot

The Best Way to Photograph Cars on a Lot With a Phone

The best way to photograph cars on a lot with a phone is to fix everything that can be fixed once (one shooting spot with open space and a plain background, one time of day in soft light, one locked set of phone settings, one written shot list) and then run every car through the same twelve minute routine, because consistency across the inventory is what makes a lot's listings look professional, not any single photo.

The problem is not any one photo

A private seller has one car and one afternoon. A lot has thirty cars a month, photographed by whoever is free, wherever the car happens to be parked, at whatever time it came off the truck. Every photo might be acceptable on its own. Together, on the inventory page, they look like thirty different sellers, and that is what a buyer sees before they see any car.

So the goal is different from the one-car guide. It is not the best photo of this car. It is the same photo of every car, taken fast enough that it actually happens the day the car arrives. Everything below is in service of that: decide once, then repeat.

Decide once: the spot

Pick one place on the lot and shoot every car there. The requirements, in order: open space all round the car so nothing sits behind it or beside it; a plain background, which on most lots means a blank wall, the back fence with nothing on it, or open sky over an empty corner; and shade for at least part of the day. Mark the spot. Two bits of tape on the ground where the front tires go means every car is in the same place at the same angle, and that alone makes the inventory look like it was shot in a studio.

What disqualifies a spot: the row. The single most common thing in a lot photo is the next car's bumper, and the second is the banner, the price board, or the balloons. If the only open space is the entrance, shoot at the entrance before the lot opens.

Decide once: the time

Midday sun on a lot full of paint and glass is the worst light there is. Shoot in a batch at one of two times: the first hour after opening, or the last hour before closing, when the sun is low and soft. On an overcast day, any time works, and it is worth moving the photo batch to that day if the forecast gives you one.

Batching matters more than it sounds. Ten cars in an hour at eight in the morning, once or twice a week, is a routine that happens. One car whenever someone remembers is a routine that does not, and the car sits unlisted for a week while it does not.

Decide once: the phone

Any phone from the last five years is sharp enough. Set it up once and do not let anyone change it: 1x lens, never the wide lens, which stretches the ends of the car. HDR on. Portrait mode, night mode, live photos, and every filter off. Grid on, so the horizon is level. Flash off. If the lot has more than one phone doing this, set them all the same.

Wipe the lens before every batch. Lot phones live in pockets with keys, and a smeared lens is the reason so many dealer photos look like they were shot through a window.

Decide once: the prep line

Nothing goes to the spot until it has been through this. Five minutes a car and it is the difference between a listing and a snapshot.

  • Washed and completely dry. Water spots on dark paint are visible at thumbnail size.
  • Price cards, sales tags, window stickers, and dealer plate frames off, unless you specifically want them in the listing. They date the photo the moment the price changes.
  • Interior cleared: floor mats straight, nothing on the seats, the trunk empty, the auction sticker off the windshield.
  • Tires dressed if you dress them. It is the one detailing step that shows in a photo.
  • Ignition on for the interior shots so the screen and cluster are lit, then off.

The shot list, in the same order every time

Print it. Tape it to the back of the phone case if you have to. The order matters because listings display photos in upload order, so the same list gives every listing the same flow without anyone rearranging anything. Twenty to twenty five photos, at headlight height, crouched, phone level, front wheels turned slightly toward the camera for the three-quarter shots.

  1. 01Front three-quarter, driver's side. The cover photo. Take three, keep one.
  2. 02Front, straight on, low.
  3. 03Front three-quarter, passenger side.
  4. 04Side profile, passenger side, wheels straight.
  5. 05Rear three-quarter, passenger side.
  6. 06Rear, straight on.
  7. 07Rear three-quarter, driver's side.
  8. 08Side profile, driver's side.
  9. 09Front wheel, close. Rear wheel, close.
  10. 10Driver's door open: seat and door panel.
  11. 11Dashboard from the rear seat, ignition on.
  12. 12Instrument cluster with the odometer readable.
  13. 13Center console and shifter.
  14. 14Front seats from the passenger door. Rear seats from a rear door.
  15. 15Trunk, open and empty.
  16. 16Engine bay, hood up.
  17. 17Every flaw, close, one photo each. Curb rash, chips, seat wear, the lot.
  18. 18The window sticker or build sheet if the car has one, flat on the passenger seat.

One person, and how long it takes

Pick one person and make it their job, even if it is the owner. Two people shooting the same shot list produce two styles, and the inventory splits into the cars one of them shot and the cars the other did. If it has to be more than one, shoot together for the first ten cars until the photos are indistinguishable.

Budget twelve minutes a car once the routine is in place: five in prep, five at the spot, two to move it. Ten cars in a two hour morning batch. If it is taking twenty five minutes a car, the spot is wrong or the prep is happening at the spot instead of before it.

The five lot-specific mistakes

The things that go wrong on a lot that do not go wrong in a driveway.

  • Shooting the car where it was parked. The row behind it, the sun where it happened to be. This is the whole reason for the spot.
  • Glare on the windshield and the price sticker from a low sun straight ahead. Move round the car so the sun is behind you or to the side, or wait for the shade to reach the spot.
  • The photographer in the reflection. Dark paint is a mirror. Stand so the door reflects sky, not a person in a polo shirt.
  • Standing height. It is quicker than crouching, and it is why so many lot photos make a car look small and the roof look big.
  • Not uploading the same day. The photos exist and the car is not online. Every day between the truck and the listing is a day on lot with nobody able to buy it.

What the routine does not fix

Run all of that and the inventory will be consistent, honest, and online the day it arrives, which beats most independent lots outright. It will also be thirty cars standing in the same corner of a lot, in whatever light that morning had. Against the franchise store's inventory, where every car stands on the same floor under the same light regardless of the weather, the corner still looks like a corner.

That is the part Lotsmith does. Every photo of the vehicle comes back relit and standing on the backdrop you chose for the inventory, one of six, five of them drawn rather than generated so the floor is the same shade on every car. The photos come back numbered in the order you shot them, which is why the shot list above matters twice: it is also the order they land in your listing. With them comes a vertical video cut from the same photos and the written listing, in one folder. It is $4.97 a vehicle at the thirty pack, nothing recurring, and the first vehicle is free, so the test is the car that has sat longest.

If your lot already has a bay with a painted wall and fixed lights, you have solved this the expensive way. Keep using it.

Questions

How many photos should a dealer take of each car?
Twenty to twenty five, from a written shot list in the same order on every car: eight exterior angles, both wheels, the interior from each door, the dash and odometer, the trunk, the engine bay, and each flaw individually. Fewer looks like something is being hidden; more and the buyer stops scrolling.
How long should it take to photograph a car on a lot?
About twelve minutes once the routine is set up: five minutes of prep, five at the shooting spot, two to move the car. Batch ten cars into a two hour morning session once or twice a week rather than shooting one whenever someone is free.
What is the best time of day to photograph cars on a dealer lot?
The first hour after opening or the last hour before closing, when the sun is low and soft, or any time on an overcast day. Never midday; the sun on a lot full of paint and glass burns out highlights and blacks out shadows.
Should a used car lot build a photo booth?
Only at volume. A bay with a painted wall and fixed lights gives perfectly consistent photos, and it costs space, money, and a car moved into it every time. For most independent lots, a marked spot with a plain background plus software that puts every car on the same backdrop gets the same consistency for nothing up front.
Which phone is best for dealer car photography?
Any phone from the last five years. The settings matter more than the model: 1x lens, HDR on, portrait and night modes and filters off, grid on, lens wiped before every batch. If several people shoot, set every phone identically.

Start with one

Turn your photos into a finished listing.

Send the photos you already took of one vehicle. Every one comes back relit, with a vertical video and the written listing, in a folder you post wherever you sell. The first listing is free.